Sunday, April 13, 2014

Cork Flooring (revisited)

I previously posted on the topic of cork flooring, but having recently replaced several panels due to a popped compression fitting under the sink and a resulting lake in our kitchen, I feel like I have more knowledge on the topic now that could be very useful to others.


Dot House kitchen (photo Ashley Poskin)


Dot House entrance (photo Ashley Poskin)

I installed floating cork flooring in our home (kitchen and entrance way) around five years ago.  For two years the flooring held up beautifully to our Doberman-Rottweiler and anything else that could be thrown at it.  However, when the Boxer-Pit became a member of the family, the flooring took a toll (photo below is to illustrate scratches; obviously the color is way off –though you can kind of get an idea of how much lighter the floor has become in sunlight).  The “look” of these floors is a very thin membrane over a cork substrate, thus, it’s not terribly difficult to mar the layer that gives the flooring its look.

Lisbon Cork "Cassatt" from Lumber Liquidators

At first I was really disappointed, but I now see this more as a failure on my part to maintain the proper finish on the floor (more on that issue below).  And to be fair, this is a 90 pound beast with CLAWS sliding across the floor chasing balls and running at the door when the bell rings.  The ONLY place the floor looks like this is in the entrance right in front of the door.  The kitchen still looks flawless.

The “click together” system is incredibly easy to install and is surprisingly stable. However, it has the same problems as any other floating floor system, i.e., it will warp when exposed to water.  When we had the water leak in the kitchen, about 10 panels that were exposed to standing water warped.  On top of that, the moisture trapped under the panels started growing mold.  I was able to remove two rows of the panels instead of having to replace the entire floor, so +1 for the click-together panel system.  This would have happened with any floating floor type system, so the problem was not really an issue of the cork.

As far as maintaining the floor, this stuff really is a miracle (I picked up this can at Lowe’s):

If used like a preventative measure (like waxing your car), your floor will last and last.  And it’s incredibly easy to put on (also like waxing your car).  After thoroughly cleaning the floor (anything you miss will be sealed in!), I use a rag and simply dip it in the can and then apply to the floor in a circular motion (again, like waxing a car).

The Varathane dries in about 10 minutes (I’m in Colorado, so the dry time may be longer if you’re in a more humid place), and then I go over it again.  Five coats takes less than two hours for a 200 sq. foot area, and the can will last forever.

Had I kept up with the Varathane as part of my “cleaning” regiment for the floor, I’m almost certain the scratches in the photo above would not have occurred.  This stuff is incredibly durable, and works great with cork flooring.

While our cork has definitely faded in sunlight, it’s an even fade and the floors still look great (barring the scratches which, again, I must take responsibility for).  There has been less fading in the kitchen where there is less sunlight (though it still gets its fair share of exposure).  If you look at the photo of the kitchen, you can see the floor is more the original shade under the table.  And then comparing the entrance, you can see how that area is even lighter than the kitchen.

All in all, I really love cork, and would put it toward the top of my list for flooring options.

Considering the issue we had with the burst pipe and standing water in the kitchen, I’m not sure it’s the most perfect floor covering in that room (I might try rubber next time?), but it’s fantastic for dropped plates (they bounce!), fatigue relief, and warmth.  Lots of people put all kinds of engineered flooring in a kitchen, which would all suffer the same problem we experienced with our cork and the leak, so again, it’s not really the cork’s fault, and that should be taken into consideration.

I wouldn’t recommend cork in bathrooms in households with children (tub splashing!), but I think it’s a great option for its warmth and comfort as long as you know it’s not going to be subject to standing water.

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

How to Fix a Squeaky Platform Bed

Found this pic online - the EXACT same bed we have except a queenWe scored a fantastic, vintage King Size teak platform bed recently at a local vintage store. After having it set up for a couple weeks, we began to notice creaks and squeaks becoming more and more pronounced.  We simply put up with the noise until we had guests for a couple of days… the guest room is directly below our boudoir.  Regardless of whether we were doing anything interesting, it certainly sounded like it any time we rolled over or moved in any way.

I agonized over a fix for days, until the solution finally came to me in a dream.

Seriously.  It came to me in a DREAM.

I was not gifted with a solution for Cancer or AIDS, or the conflict in the Middle East, but instead divine intervention showed me the way to fix a squeaky 60’s platform bed.

Whatever.  I’ll take it.  Better than nothing.

One morning I awoke smiling.  My wife asked me what was up and I told that I was given the solution to our squeaky bed problem in a dream!  I had dreamt about running a bar of soap along the rail on each side and center of the bed that suspends the slats that hold the mattress.  The bed is built solidly, so it’s not the frame squeaking, it’s just those slats rubbing back and forth, wood on wood (minds out of the gutter).

So that night I tried it.  Right before I did, I thought, “I’m an idiot.”  This isn’t going to work at all.  Who dreams of a solution to a problem like this?

But sure enough: it worked!

Hopefully the next time I am visited in my dreams by the Powers of the Universe, I will be given the solution to something a little more significant.  Meanwhile, I am very thankful to have the solution to our squeaky bed.

UPDATE: While the soap worked for a while, it definitely wore off.  Sure, I could keep applying it, but then I had another idea.  I purchased some cork shelf liner (sticky-backed cork), cut it to fit the edge upon which the bed slats rest, and now the creaking is permanently gone!

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Replacement Insert for Midcentury Crane Faucet Handle

Crane sinks ruled the well appointed Midcentury bathroom.

We have a lovely, white “Westland” Crane sink in our master bath.  The chrome around the mouth of the faucet is beginning to flake and at some point I will likely swap out the whole sink with a pink “Diana” that I found in Illinois, but until it’s time for a proper bathroom overhaul (lighting, cabinets, re-grout, and new flooring with radiant heat), the sink will remain.


In the meantime I have swapped the lever handles with the dome handles (Crane referred to these dome handles as “Temple Handles”) from the Crane sink in the basement (either a “Neuday” or “Oxford”).  Turns out, the lever handles were actually originally on the Neuday (not the Westland, which came with the Temple handles).  I believe someone did a previous swap of the handles on the two sinks because the levers were much easier to use then the dome handles for the presumably arthritic hands of the previous owner.

All of these post-war to early 60’s sinks use the Crane “Dial Ese” system with a star tipped stem that inserts up into the handle (I actually have a couple more of these sinks, including the “Drexel,” “Diana,” and “Criterion” that I’ve been saving for whatever project might come up).

In our faucet, the inserts in the handles that allow them to grip the cartridge stem are made of wood (and cheap pressboard at that).  I’m not sure if that’s a handy-man’s fix-it, or if that’s just how they originally came, but it creates a nasty little ring of goo at the base of the faucet (the pressboard wood basically melts when it gets wet), and finally (thankfully), the wood has stripped and failed, and I can put off replacing the inserts no longer.

[UPDATE] The little wooden/pressboard inserts are original to the faucet (not a Jury Rig).  When examining carefully, you can see the word “top” imprinted on the insert.

Crane Handle Insert (this is what you need)Luckily there is a nylon/plastic replacement part available, though it was a little tricky to find places selling them at first, and shipping is ridiculous.  It seems like every place that sells them charges at LEAST $10 for shipping.  Bear in mind, this is an item made of plastic (lightweight) that is smaller than a penny.  Ever heard of a stamp and a FREAKING ENVELOPE PEOPLE?! That would be $.44 to ship instead of $10 or more.

412D3F8SK4L._SX385_Since originally I was looking at around $20 shipped just for the little plastic insert, when I finally found the entire kit shown here for $6.99 on Amazon, I just went ahead and ordered the whole thing, so I have the other parts if I ever need them.


Evidently Ace Hardware used to make a specific Crane Faucet Repair Kit that you can still find around (here’s one on Amazon), but the kit they carry now does not include the square nylon inserts (the most important part!).



What Ace used to carry.

What they now carry.


FWIW, here are a couple of the places I found before finding the much cheaper solution on Amazon:

DEA Bath

While DEA is extremely knowledgeable with the MCM Crane stuff and even sells whole sinks in addition to the handles and repair parts, this just might be the worst designed website I’ve seen since I sat next to that weird kid wearing the Iron Maiden shirt in HTML class in college. Just sayin’. Also, a major pet peeve of mine is providing images with links that say “click to enlarge” which only spawn a pop up window with the EXACT SAME SIZE PHOTO.

Chicago Faucet Shoppe

The exorbitant shipping plus their use of the term “shoppe” prevented me from ordering from here.

Faucet Fix

I couldn’t complete my transaction because when I clicked “add to cart” Pay Pal told me that the seller was not able to accept payments!  I’m only providing this information and website to illustrate what one must go through when trying to find repair parts for MCM stuff.

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Build LLC in Seattle

This is just a little shout out of love for one of my new favorite architectural blogs.


Build LLC is a design/build firm in Seattle that does a great job restoring and building MCM homes or at least homes with a Modern flair.

Their website is a nice showcase of their work, and their blog is a FANTASTIC resource for those of us doing things that are a little beyond simply buying materials at Lowe’s and putting them up in a typical fashion.

I stumbled across the blog looking for information on edge treatment for drywall (L Bead, J Bead, reveals, etc.) and was amazed by the amount of “secrets” that Build LLC had made available on their site. [that specific post is here]

Another post I read regarding drywall was giving tips on how to make sure minor mistakes in the framing, construction, etc. don’t show through to the finished wall.  That’s some valuable and extremely helpful information (not something construction people are often apt to share!).

Kudos for not being so guarded with this fantastic information and for helping people like me figure out how to create beautiful work in a not-so-typical fashion!

Sliding Doors (Barn Door Hardware for Trolley/Rail Mount Door)

On the journey to our MCM Atomic Ranch home, we restored and lived in two other homes.  The first was an Ohio farm house (1917) that we restored/reinvented to something more “modern,” but definitely on the contemporary side of things, before I became a fan of more “purist” MCM ideals.  The second home was a beautiful little American Foursquare (1911).  In each of those locations, I built a sliding door and used simple galvanized steel barn door hardware for the sliding rail/track.

The room is obviously in progress, but you can see the door style on the left (click to enlarge photo).
In the first home, I custom built a giant door for the bathroom that was clad in steel sheeting to look like an old freezer door.  On the second home, the installation was for an exterior courtyard “gate” application.

I am currently building an attached shed on the back of my studio, and when I visited Lowe’s and Home Depot to pick up the barn door hardware I needed for a large (barn door sized) pocket door, I was surprised to find that they don’t carry barn door hardware!  How can Lowe’s/HD in COLORADO (land of horse and barn) not have sliding barn door hardware?!

I had quite a bit of trouble locating a local store that carries what I need, and it was also fairly difficult to find anything online at a reasonable price.  The typical Stanley rails I’ve used before are not even available at Grainger (my source for “to the trade” hard to find hardware type stuff), and the ones they DO have start at $110 (with local pickup) and go up from there. WTF?!

The cheapest thing I finally found was at It’s $18.36 for an 8 foot rail or $13.76 for a 6 foot rail (each is rated at 450 pounds).  I was nervous about the shipping cost of an 8 foot piece of steel, but the shipping was only $25 (the site said it would only be $15, but they charge a $10 shipping surcharge on the item –beware of this when ordering from other sites, some say “additional shipping may be charged, we will contact you if this is the case” –so you make your purchase and they call you to tell you it will actually cost more to ship!!!).  So that’s $44 total for the rail delivered (a far cry from Grainger’s starting price of $110).  In comparison, the rail is $30 at Sears (but only online, so $15 more for tax and shipping), and can be found for around $40 on Amazon (with a shipping price of anywhere from $11 to $125 (!!!), depending upon the vendor).  I can’t decide if I’ll be going with a more “known” vendor like Sears or Amazon (hopefully this could mitigate taking care of any issues that might arise) verses ordering from, which I’ve never heard of or used before.

The link below illustrates the kind of thing I had been running up against prior to finding the options above.

$341 for barn door hardware ($629 for the stainless)?! Obviously they are preying upon those who were not raised on a farm and think they must pay a premium for something “quaint” (I understand a higher price for the stainless stuff, but still…). The Real Sliding Hardware site IS a great place to see different installations of this kind of setup, and they also have some cool stuff that is a little more custom looking/functioning than simple barn door box rail.

To complete the project, I lucked out and found a box with all of the rest of the hardware (the hanging trolley wheels, rail hanging brackets, guide rail/wheels, etc.) at my local Habitat for Humanity ReStore for $15 (it’ll run you anywhere from $85-$125 for all the extra stuff new, or $35 for a two-pack of just the trolley wheels).

Friday, July 27, 2012

“The Real Cost of Rip-Offs”

Dwell_June12_Cover_Web_1239x1600The June Issue of Dwell has an article called “The Real Cost of Rip-Offs” that I’ve been seeing/hearing quite a few people comment on.  This notion of “real/affordable modern” was a major impetus for starting this blog several years ago.  One of the blogs I follow, The Brick House, posted regarding being quoted by Dwell on this very issue.  The author sort of condones or even encourages knock-offs in certain situations.  Sure, she lauds the common party-line of “buy authentic vintage when you can,” but she definitely says it’s OK (or even necessary) to buy knock-offs ‘cause they’re more affordable to people on a realistic budget.

I think this is an issue that most “normal” (i.e. not rich) fans of midcentury modern are torn on.  On the one hand, you want to make sure that the quality of the chair that you’re buying means it will last and that the original designer is getting the credit (and pay) he/she deserves.  However, there comes a point where the cost is simply prohibitive, and the average person is forced to either buy a knock-off (if you can’t find what you’re looking for used) or not buy at all.

Tulip-Armless-Chair-by-Knoll-International-by-Eero-Saarinen-image-1I did a post a while back regarding some Saarinen Tulip Chair knock-offs we purchased. I knew we wanted a round Saarinen table for our breakfast nook, and was fortunate enough to find one on eBay.  However, finding the chairs (armless Tulips) proved more of a challenge, and every time I searched, I found the knock-offs staring me in the face.  At $250 instead of $1,500 for the authentic Knoll, I decided to give them a shot.  You can read about the debacle that followed in my original post, but needless to say, I learned my lesson.  That said, I think there are certain items where the knock-off would serve your needs without the danger of failure (fewer moving parts, materials that are less apt to fail, etc.). [Shh… don’t tell anyone I said that].

This brings us to the argument regarding whether or not people should be “allowed” to have things they can’t afford, and how knock-offs might actually drive up the cost of the real McCoy.  The first argument is answered simply by: if you can find something to make you happy for the price, who is to say you shouldn’t be “allowed” to have it as long as any laws aren’t being broken (you’ll just have to deal with the consequences of shoddy workmanship and functionality –and this is often a hard lesson, since you’ll still be spending your hard-earned money on something that will fail after a few short years or less).  I think the second argument is nonsense.  The difference between authentic and knock-off is fairly easily discernable. In other words, knock-offs aren’t really fooling anybody (if for no other reason than the price tag), and in most cases, no one’s actually trying to pass them off as the real deal. Not to mention, people who can afford the high prices of “designer” furniture would never buy a knock-off, thus, the price of a designer item is not being affected by knock-offs, because the target market for the designer item is unaffected.  I suppose one could make an argument for an item becoming less desirable if tons and tons of “normal” people own a knock-off version (thus devaluing the original), but that’s a little like saying people won’t buy a Nelson Bubble because Ikea sells paper lanterns in similar shapes.

So let’s talk about status vs. function.  What is the purpose of the piece of furniture in question?  Most midcentury modern furniture was not intended to be a status symbol, in fact, quite the opposite.  Notable designers of the 50’s and 60’s, especially “case study” designers, were looking for ways to bring sensible and beautiful design to the masses –highest quality at a reasonable price.  This begs the question of a responsibility that manufacturers/sellers/studios have not only to the consumer, but also to the intentions of the original designers.  As much as the word “Ikea” is dreaded in many design circles, I don’t think there’s any question that if Ikea had been around in 1958, Charles and Ray Eames would have gladly been working with them.

Before people start sending fiery hate-mail regarding this notion, I will qualify that we are talking about an age where affordable manufacturing was still possible in the United States and quality did not suffer for cost of manufacturing; you didn’t have to build things in China and Malaysia with underpaid labor to make them accessible.

imagesThis also isn’t to say there aren’t instances where “high design” items, or at least iconic pieces, aren’t still sometimes priced “appropriately” (at least somewhat affordably).  I did another post on the Nelson Bubble Lamp.  At $300, adjusted for inflation, it costs the exact same as the first day it rolled off the line in 1947 (for $35).

There are also times where an item is really expensive, but probably should be. I am TOTALLY in love with the Corvo chair by corvo_130410_36-200x200NoĆ© Duchaufour-Lawrance for Bernhardt Design. It’s gorgeous, hand-crafted from Walnut (in North Carolina, no less), and costs $1,500. If someone is creating a chair out of hardwood by hand (not to mention advertising it and taking it to market), $1,500 probably isn’t out of the question. Can I afford it? No. Can I buy a knock off? No (nor would I).  But I would suggest that there are no knock-offs because the price-point is appropriate… it actually costs that much to make and market the chair.  (by the way, check out the great series of Corvo photos on The Contemporist)

I think this is an important notion to consider.  If a knock-off can be made for much, MUCH less than what the “real” item is going for, either the materials and manufacturing in the knock-off are so shoddy that no one will buy the knock-off, or the “real” item is overpriced (shame on the design house/supplier).  Saarinen’s Womb Chair when purchased from Knoll is $3,500.  You can get a pretty good looking (I have no personal experience with the actual functional quality) knock-off for around $800.  Will it last as long as the Knoll?  Probably not, but the price difference between the two is SO VAST that it really makes you question Knoll’s price point, especially when you think about what the chair consists of… molded fiberglass with glued foam covered in fabric with four metal legs (should a chair of those materials really be pushing $4k?).

In this internet age, there is definitely a danger of people being tricked into buying something they think is similar to the original, when in fact it is nowhere near.  As such, I think it’s pretty safe to say that buying a knock-off sight-unseen is just asking for trouble.  If you’re going to buy a knock off… make sure you sit in it and touch it first.  The “shadiness” of people selling knock-offs proliferates in the online arena, and the issues become more about deceiving people than about people knowingly purchasing a lower quality item because they want the look and lower quality is all they can afford.

What’s even more shameful than the proliferation of knock-offs is the wildly expensive “high design” pieces which are notorious for being ludicrously low quality.  In these instances, the “high design costs more to make because of quality control and the materials used” argument is total b.s.  Take Roche Bobois for instance.  Their furniture is extremely expensive, considered “high end” modern (though I would say, in more instances it’s more “contemporary” than modern), and is most often total crap as far as build quality and longevity is involved.  img_4988I have a friend who’s family has been in the business of building, restoring, and reupholstering furniture for more than 100 years.  He turns red in the face and sweats with rage whenever he hears the name “Roche Bobois.” (“$10,000 for a couch that won’t last 10 years?!” –and yes, he’s not being hyperbolic, these things often cost more than $10k …and they are total crap)

So anyway, I don’t think a single Knoll Tulip side chair should cost $1,500.  Should I not be allowed to have one (let alone a set) in my house because I can’t spend an entire month’s mortgage on a single chair?  Should I buy a knock-off instead (in this case, I’d say “no!” but that’s mostly because the Tulip Chair knock offs are really poorly manufactured)?  Must I force myself to be happy with something else?  Who’s fault is it that a “normal” person can’t possibly afford a set of Knoll Tulip chairs?  Is it my fault that I want pretty things (even if I can’t afford the “real deal”)?  Lot’s of questions… and all the answers seem to be highly subjective.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Carefree California: Cliff May and the Romance of the Ranch House

If you are anywhere near Santa Barbara from April 12 to June 17, don’t miss this exhibit at The Art, Design & Architecture Museum!


“The exhibition and accompanying catalogue examine the modernization of the ranch tradition and its transition from regional designs in adobe, brick, tile, and stucco to the modest wood and glass tract house of the forties, to the near-minimal system-built ranches May designed and sold in the late 1950s and, finally, to his luxury ranch houses.”

–from the museum website

For more information: